By Gordon Foote. Jiro Ono is eighty-five. Every day, he gets up, rides the train to his 10-seat restaurant, situated in a Tokyo basement, and makes sushi. He has followed this routine, day-in-day-out, since the war. Jiro makes sushi. He does not make noodles. He does not make yakizkana. He does not make tempura. He makes sushi.