By Gordon Foote.
Jiro Ono is eighty-five.
Every day, he gets up, rides the train to his 10-seat restaurant, situated in a Tokyo basement, and makes sushi. He has followed this routine, day-in-day-out, since the war.
Jiro makes sushi.
He does not make noodles.
He does not make yakizkana.
He does not make tempura.
He makes sushi.